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Auto & Mechanics tips

78 free skill tips with unique step photos — plus long-form guides with FAQ and trusted sources. Every tip links to a full photographed course.

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Auto & Mechanics tips

You are looking at friction material thickness, not the steel backing plate.

🔧 Auto & Mechanics · Step 1/8

Read remaining pad material

Read remaining pad material — step 1 of 8 in Brake Pad Replacement. Look through the caliper window or pull a wheel. Friction material under 3 mm is due. A metal wear indicator squeal is due.

From course: Brake Pad Replacement

Jack stands carry the car. The jack is backup, not the plan.

🔧 Auto & Mechanics · Step 2/8

Lift points, chocks, stands

Lift points, chocks, stands — step 2 of 8 in Brake Pad Replacement. Park in gear or park, parking brake on, rear wheels chocked. Jack at the factory pinch weld or marked point — never the plastic undertray.

From course: Brake Pad Replacement

Caliper supported. Hose slack, not stretched.

🔧 Auto & Mechanics · Step 3/8

Bolts and hang

Bolts and hang — step 3 of 8 in Brake Pad Replacement. Remove the lower slide-pin bolt (many cars pivot the caliper up on the top bolt).

From course: Brake Pad Replacement

Hardware and rotor check — Auto & Mechanics tip photo

🔧 Auto & Mechanics · Step 4/8

Hardware and rotor check

Hardware and rotor check — step 4 of 8 in Brake Pad Replacement. Pull the old pads. Compare inner vs outer wear — if one is gone and one is thick, slides were stuck. Replace clips that are bent.

From course: Brake Pad Replacement

Slow compression. The boot should look even, not torn.

🔧 Auto & Mechanics · Step 5/8

Compress slowly

Compress slowly — step 5 of 8 in Brake Pad Replacement. A C-clamp on a pad against the piston works on many front calipers. Watch the rubber boot — it should fold in, not pinch.

From course: Brake Pad Replacement

Star pattern on the lugs. Then a second pass.

🔧 Auto & Mechanics · Step 6/8

Pads in, caliper on, wheels torqued

Pads in, caliper on, wheels torqued — step 6 of 8 in Brake Pad Replacement. Inner pad (often the one with the wear tab or shim) goes piston side. Outer on the bracket. Caliper over the top.

From course: Brake Pad Replacement

Firm pedal in the driveway. Not at the first stoplight.

🔧 Auto & Mechanics · Step 7/8

Pump the pedal with the car still in the air or in the driveway

Pump the pedal with the car still in the air or in the driveway — step 7 of 8 in Brake Pad Replacement. Engine off, pump until the pedal is firm. Check the master cylinder level — it rises when pistons retract for new pads, then settles.

From course: Brake Pad Replacement

Bed-in: heat, then cool, don't sit on the pedal — Auto & Mechanics tip photo

🔧 Auto & Mechanics · Step 8/8

Bed-in: heat, then cool, don't sit on the pedal

Bed-in: heat, then cool, don't sit on the pedal — step 8 of 8 in Brake Pad Replacement. Ten moderate stops from about 50 km/h down to 15 km/h, no full stop, 30 seconds between. Then two firmer stops from 60.

From course: Brake Pad Replacement

Buy exact oil and filter — Auto & Mechanics tip photo

🔧 Auto & Mechanics · Step 1/10

Buy exact oil and filter

Buy exact oil and filter — step 1 of 10 in DIY Oil Change at Home. Manual viscosity and capacity.

From course: DIY Oil Change at Home

Warm engine and chock wheels — Auto & Mechanics tip photo

🔧 Auto & Mechanics · Step 2/10

Warm engine and chock wheels

Warm engine and chock wheels — step 2 of 10 in DIY Oil Change at Home. Flat ground; parking brake.

From course: DIY Oil Change at Home

Lift on stands or ramps — Auto & Mechanics tip photo

🔧 Auto & Mechanics · Step 3/10

Lift on stands or ramps

Lift on stands or ramps — step 3 of 10 in DIY Oil Change at Home. Shake test; never jack-only.

From course: DIY Oil Change at Home

Remove drain plug into pan — Auto & Mechanics tip photo

🔧 Auto & Mechanics · Step 4/10

Remove drain plug into pan

Remove drain plug into pan — step 4 of 10 in DIY Oil Change at Home. Last turns by hand; replace washer; torque.

From course: DIY Oil Change at Home

Remove old filter — Auto & Mechanics tip photo

🔧 Auto & Mechanics · Step 5/10

Remove old filter

Remove old filter — step 5 of 10 in DIY Oil Change at Home. Catch drips; clean mount surface.

From course: DIY Oil Change at Home

Install new filter — Auto & Mechanics tip photo

🔧 Auto & Mechanics · Step 6/10

Install new filter

Install new filter — step 6 of 10 in DIY Oil Change at Home. Oil gasket; hand tight plus brand turn.

From course: DIY Oil Change at Home

Add measured quarts — Auto & Mechanics tip photo

🔧 Auto & Mechanics · Step 7/10

Add measured quarts

Add measured quarts — step 7 of 10 in DIY Oil Change at Home. Funnel; leave a margin then dipstick.

From course: DIY Oil Change at Home

Run engine and check leaks — Auto & Mechanics tip photo

🔧 Auto & Mechanics · Step 8/10

Run engine and check leaks

Run engine and check leaks — step 8 of 10 in DIY Oil Change at Home. 30 seconds; inspect filter and plug.

From course: DIY Oil Change at Home

Recycle oil and log mileage — Auto & Mechanics tip photo

🔧 Auto & Mechanics · Step 9/10

Recycle oil and log mileage

Recycle oil and log mileage — step 9 of 10 in DIY Oil Change at Home. Sealed jug to parts store.

From course: DIY Oil Change at Home

Pass criteria — Auto & Mechanics tip photo

🔧 Auto & Mechanics · Step 10/10

Pass criteria

Pass criteria — step 10 of 10 in DIY Oil Change at Home. Review your result against this course checklist and note what you finished.

From course: DIY Oil Change at Home

Engine and breathing — Auto & Mechanics tip photo

🔧 Auto & Mechanics · Step 1/5

Engine and breathing

Engine and breathing — step 1 of 5 in How Motorcycles Actually Work. Air intake filters and meters air; fuel injectors (or carb) mix; spark ignites; exhaust leaves.

From course: How Motorcycles Actually Work

Gearbox, clutch, chain — Auto & Mechanics tip photo

🔧 Auto & Mechanics · Step 2/5

Gearbox, clutch, chain

Gearbox, clutch, chain — step 2 of 5 in How Motorcycles Actually Work. Clutch disconnects engine from gearbox so you can shift. Gears multiply torque. Chain or belt final drive spins the rear wheel.

From course: How Motorcycles Actually Work

Fuses exist for a reason — never bypass with foil.

🔧 Auto & Mechanics · Step 3/5

Battery, charging, ECU

Battery, charging, ECU — step 3 of 5 in How Motorcycles Actually Work. 12V battery starts and feeds electronics. Charging system replaces what you use. ECU/ignition time the spark and fuel on modern bikes.

From course: How Motorcycles Actually Work

Suspension and hydraulic brakes — Auto & Mechanics tip photo

🔧 Auto & Mechanics · Step 4/5

Suspension and hydraulic brakes

Suspension and hydraulic brakes — step 4 of 5 in How Motorcycles Actually Work. Front forks + rear shock manage grip and comfort. Brake lever pushes fluid through lines to calipers squeezing discs.

From course: How Motorcycles Actually Work

Pass criteria: 60-second systems tour — Auto & Mechanics tip photo

🔧 Auto & Mechanics · Step 5/5

Pass criteria: 60-second systems tour

Pass criteria: 60-second systems tour — step 5 of 5 in How Motorcycles Actually Work. You pass when you can walk nose-to-tail naming power, drive, electrics, suspension, and brakes without hand-waving — and you know where…

From course: How Motorcycles Actually Work

Hazards, chock, loosen first — Auto & Mechanics tip photo

🔧 Auto & Mechanics · Step 1/3

Hazards, chock, loosen first

Hazards, chock, loosen first — step 1 of 3 in Change a Flat Tire Yourself. Hazards on, parking brake, gear in park/1st. Chock opposite wheel. Get spare, jack, wrench out before you need them mid-rain.

From course: Change a Flat Tire Yourself

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